LED light construction for complete noob

[Simomas]

Hey guys I got hold of 15 of these led strips from Alibaba a few years ago, then I couldn't grow anymore for personal reasons.
However, I would like to start over with microgrowing (space is limited) in an Eket cabinet from Ikea, 35x35x70cm (1x1x2 feet).
How many of these led strips would I need? I would preferably use them without a heatsink, perhaps using them at 5w each and using 10 for a total of 50w. What driver should I use?

 

[VetSmoke85]

Suppose it depends if you want to wire them in series or parallel. Then you can calculate the required forward voltage.

Here's a build I did if any of the info there helps.

Cheap DIY LED strip build

I made a DIY flower tent from an old canvas shoe rack and needed a light. The dimensions are 60x30x90cm. Not many quality lights out there to fit the space so I decided to build my own. After searching online and reading guides I opted for a strip build. Part of this plan was to keep costs as...

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[Simomas]

Hi! Thank you for your reply, I read your post! A construction like yours would be perfect!
I would like to wire them in series because it seems easier to me

 

[Simomas]

However, I don't know what the nominal current of each individual strip is and what the maximum is. I just know that the maximum power per strip is 12watt. But after various searches I managed to find the seller on Alibaba, now I will write him a message to ask him for this information

 

[VetSmoke85]

However, I don't know what the nominal current of each individual strip is and what the maximum is. I just know that the maximum power per strip is 12watt. But after various searches I managed to find the seller on Alibaba, now I will write him a message to ask him for this information

Fingers crossed they can provide all the info. Will make matching a driver much easier for you. Keep us updated. It's fun building your own light and I love to see a micro grow.

 

[Bill284]

Hey guys I got hold of 15 of these led strips from Alibaba a few years ago, then I couldn't grow anymore for personal reasons.
However, I would like to start over with microgrowing (space is limited) in an Eket cabinet from Ikea, 35x35x70cm (1x1x2 feet).
How many of these led strips would I need? I would preferably use them without a heatsink, perhaps using them at 5w each and using 10 for a total of 50w. What driver should I use?

Hey @Simomas hope you are well my friend.
Welcome to 420magazine.
Here is a thread if you want to say hi and meet everyone.

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Your opportunity to tell the 420 community a little about yourself and your interest in cannabis with a brief introduction

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Stay safe
Bill

 

[Simomas]

Fingers crossed they can provide all the info. Will make matching a driver much easier for you. Keep us updated. It's fun building your own light and I love to see a micro grow.

Waiting for the response from the seller, this is the only information I have found. I only realized now that it is in my language, "input current: 450mA".
However I will keep you updated!
It was nice that you answered me because it is very difficult to find someone who has built their build for a small grow, and at the moment you are my main source of inspiration, in fact I will copy the structure for the support of the lights!

I also made a presentation post in the appropriate section!

 

[VetSmoke85]

@Nunyabiz and @bluter know a thing or two about building lighting rigs too.

 

[bluter]

easiest thing to do is take those numbers and drop them in to the led driver calculator at led gardener dot com.
it will return a value for a driver or two depending on your wiring choice and whether you build constant voltage or constant current.


edit : i'd mount them direct to aluminum strips as a heat sink. you can only run a few without and they won't last as long.

 

[Simomas]

Hi @bluter and thanks for coming!
I thought a bit tonight, especially after reading other posts too (thanks here goes to you @VetSmoke85 ).
The led strips in my possession I bought them more than two years ago, I don't know anything about their specifications, etc, and I checked the diode and from the internet images it seems to be one of the counterfeit ones.
So I thought about buying the Bridgelux EB Series 2, they cost very little (€ 2.80 / one) and I would be sure to buy an original product, with all the necessary information and specifications.

Let's get to some math, my grow space would be 35x35x70cm (1.15x1.15x2.3 feet), which is 1.12m2 which translates to 1.29 square feet.
The recommended wattage per square foot is 30/40W for the flowering period, so I'd need 38.7 to 51.6W.
Here comes an old VetSmoke post called "DIY LED guru's required" and a user named Old Salt. Among the various options with 27.5cm Bridgelux strips there is this: use a HLG-60H-C350 driver with 7 strips (the minimum is 5 and the maximum is 10), the minimum power will be 28.1W, the nominal power 40.63W and the maximum power 47.7W. I would say this build is perfect for my space!
During the first stages of growth I could use it at minimum power to not burn the small plants and then go to the maximum for the flowering phase. I understand that I would not even be close to the limit of each light strip, therefore being able to use them without a heatsink (although I think I will still add a 2/3mm aluminum strip per led strip).
What do you think?
I have a question about the power supply; he uses version A with integrated dimmer, but would it be a good option to buy version B and add a 100k ohm potentiometer for more leeway?

Thank you so much for reading this wall of text

Edit: I forgot to enter the driver specifications
Output voltage: 100 ~ 200V
Max Output current: 350mA
Power Max: 70W

 

[bluter]

The led strips in my possession I bought them more than two years ago, I don't know anything about their specifications, etc, and I checked the diode and from the internet images it seems to be one of the counterfeit ones.

well that sucks

So I thought about buying the Bridgelux EB Series 2, they cost very little (€ 2.80 / one) and I would be sure to buy an original product, with all the necessary information and specifications.

not bad but probably won't have the longevity of the lms. bridgelux and osram find their way in to a lot of fixtures.

I understand that I would not even be close to the limit of each light strip, therefore being able to use them without a heatsink (although I think I will still add a 2/3mm aluminum strip per led strip).
What do you think?

you can mount to aluminum strips, or purchase pre molded aluminum that the strips simply slide into. both provide a bit of a heat sink. drawing heat away is only ever a good thing. it will work without, the question is how long and how quick it degrades.

it doesn't take much to accomplish on a small rig. one guy mounted them to a cookie sheet and made his own qb.

I have a question about the power supply; he uses version A with integrated dimmer, but would it be a good option to buy version B and add a 100k ohm potentiometer for more leeway?

i'm not sure how he has it set up. i went with a b dimmer that provides options for dimming

Thank you so much for reading this wall of text

Edit: I forgot to enter the driver specifications
Output voltage: 100 ~ 200V
Max Output current: 350mA
Power Max: 70W

so already have the driver ? .. just match the number of strips to it then.

 

[Simomas]

quindi hai già il driver?

Nope, I don't already have the driver! Those are the specifications of the HLG-60H-350. I forgot to add them before

I also already have another question; with the build proposed in the comment above I would wire in series, taking into account that the forward voltage of each strip is 19.5V, I would have a total of 136.5V.
It's dangerous? Would it be better to do parallel wiring? (obviously buying a different driver)

 

[Simomas]

It's me again! I hope not to disturb you but whenever I have an idea I prefer to write it to compare myself with people more experienced than me.
Among my various searches I found a post in which it was mentioned that the EB Series Gen 2 do not go wired in series > 60V. However I have seen a lot of people do this, including Vet, so it got me a little confused

So I thought of another build, using parallel wiring.
I used the tool recommended by Bluter, even if it is no longer updated and uses the Gen 1 of the Eb series as a reference

Obviously take into account that the voltage of the Gen 2 is 19.5V and not 22.1V, but I suppose this driver would be fine anyway. I would choose the B version of the driver to be able to put a potentiometer and use a lower wattage

Tips and tricks on which build would be better are welcome!

 

[VetSmoke85]

Yeah I can't recall why I chose series wiring. If my memory is right they give the advantages and disadvantages of series and parallel on the led gardener website.

 

[bluter]

a lot of folk have issues understanding parallel. there are various scenarios where a run away melt could occur resulting in a possible fire. the wiring and driver choice is meant to defeat that. it also helps determine if you run a constant voltage or constant current driver.

simplest approach is usually constant current and series wiring. not always the best. make sure to read through that site.

 

[Simomas]

Yes, the amount of information is enormous so it is a bit difficult to understand where to orient yourself. Undoubtedly series connection seems to me easier to accomplish ..

 

[Simomas]

edit: waiting for the complete message

 

[Simomas]

Hey guys, I'm back with some updates
First, grow space. I found the Metod cabinet on the Ikea website, 40x37cm (1,3x1,2ft) and height of 80 or 100cm, but I can decide this later.
I would have a little more room to maneuver and I would be less tight than the previous option, there is a few watts of power to add but it's ok

I have finally begun to understand something for the construction of my panel! And I think I have arrived at the definitive build for my space

8 × Bridgelux EB Series 2 3500K 270mm
1 × Meanwell HLG-60H-C350A

In the end I opted for the "A" version with integrated dimmer, which will allow me to adjust the current between 210 and 350mA. I preferred this solution even though the "B" model would have given me more dimming, but being my first build I prefer to keep it simple.

I will therefore have a maximum power of 54.4W at 350mA and a minimum of 32W at 210mA. The maximum power is 85% of what I would need following the indication of 40W/ft, but I am satisfied anyway and I do not want to increase the number of strips for now.
My voltage will then be 156V.

On one side the strips have bare solder points for the positive and negative of the circuit, so for safety I will apply liquid electrical tape, electrical tape or silicone to these points

I am attaching photos of the wiring to ask you if everything seems correct.

I will mount the strips on an aluminum plate measuring 30x30cm and 2/3mm thick, the strips should not heat up very much but as @bluter said it is better to be on the safe side.


So..the shopping list will be as follows:
- 10 Bridgelux EB Series 2 (2 for reserve)
- HLG-60H-C350A
- 18awg solid wire
- 4 Wago wire connectors (2 for reserve)
- Aluminum plate 30x30 thickness 0.3mm
- Thermal tape to attach the strips to the plate
- Cable connector (is the one in the photo right?)

It seems to me there is everything...if I have to add more tell me!I will order as soon as I know if you think the build will work and if the shopping list is ok!

 

[bluter]

just be aware that A drivers are not actively dimmed. there is a set screw where you set a constant level. you set it at one level and walk away. in order to change the dimming again you have to access the driver and change it with the set screw.

a B driver is set up to accept active dimming from a potentiometer that you would add yourself. you can also use pwm control. the B drivers have the wiring added in for dimming capability. A drivers do not.

edit : b driver = more control = better.

 

[Simomas]

Hi Butler, the fact is that I don't know how to solder the two wires and I'm afraid of doing some damage, and I don't even have a soldering iron..are there any potentiometers where I can not solder? I found some on Amazon but I don't understand which one is right

How does a pwm controller work? On a constant current driver like the one I chose, I would go and change the mA values, right? I have searched the internet and it seems to me that this type of controller does not need to be soldered, so it would be perfect