Plant health, need help!

[JeanArti]

Hi, I came across some problems right after transplanting to bigger pot (11L).

for the soil I mixed the final ground soil where I am going to place my plant + regular gardening soil with humus + perlite for humidity(to hold water better)

{While I was transplanting I encountered white flies on my plants which I took care of by homemade insect spray. They are gone right now.}

I placed all the plants outside for more natural sunlight(not just light through a window) and darkness at night. Temperature levels go from 11 degrees celsius at night to 22 through the day.

All 3 plants started whitening from sides, mostly lower leaves. And some of the leaves started bending down. Sometimes the white spots start to dry out from the leaf edges.

1 or 2 of then started browning from inside(goldenbrown)

Time to time I encounter some 0,5 cm big bug on the top of the plant.

All the plants are 6 weeks old. Transplant was made 10 days ago.

Everything shown in the photos.

Can ya’ll please help?

When I looked into the examples of diseases on this page it looks like the caterpillar case but there is a bite only on 1 leaf from today.

 

[013]

Hey JeanArti,

Welcome to 420. I don’t have all the answers but let’s get started… just fyi perlite doesn’t hold water but it’s cousin vermiculite does… perlite drains, vermiculite retains… perlite adds air or aeration to your soil mix

Low temps kind of has you in holding pattern, plants slow down in cool environment. The soil looks compacted and crusted from watering in one photo and in the very last pics it looks like maybe exposed roots? Hmm for now cover any exposed roots with soil and I’d stop watering and hope the temps warm up. There’s an old blurb something like leaves pointing down indicate problems underground, she’s pointing at her roots.

Looks like perhaps they were transplanted too early so now it’s small plants in huge containers which can also slow things down. Sometimes if the rootball isn’t like bam in-your-face robust as in totally covered with white roots then what can happen is the old rootball gets blanketed in by a lot of new soil and watered in…. which means less oxygen to the root zone, which can be further compounded by overwatering. A crust on top of soil is a sign that soil tilth & calcium are off and the crust impedes evaporation and proper airflow

with low temps and recent transplant think I’d hold off on watering and let the soil dry out. Also I wouldn’t expect much change until temps improve significantly…

Hopefully you’ve caught this in time and we can help turn it around.


Questions,
Can you tell us the brand name of potting soil?
Got a pic of the bag?
Do you know if it had nutrients added?
Do you have any nutrients on hand?

my 2 cents but for now hang tight and don’t change a thing…

let’s see what else comes in from the crew

 

[Phytoplankton]

I agree with @013, the cool temps aren’t helping, and given the cool temps they may be overwatered. At this point, let the plants adapt to their new surroundings. (And hope the weather warms up soon)

 

[013]

It could easily take a week to 10 days time to dry the soil back… maybe longer.

I’d keep rain off them too

 

[JeanArti]

Hey JeanArti,

Welcome to 420. I don’t have all the answers but let’s get started… just fyi perlite doesn’t hold water but it’s cousin vermiculite does… perlite drains, vermiculite retains… perlite adds air or aeration to your soil mix

Low temps kind of has you in holding pattern, plants slow down in cool environment. The soil looks compacted and crusted from watering in one photo and in the very last pics it looks like maybe exposed roots? Hmm for now cover any exposed roots with soil and I’d stop watering and hope the temps warm up. There’s an old blurb something like leaves pointing down indicate problems underground, she’s pointing at her roots.

Looks like perhaps they were transplanted too early so now it’s small plants in huge containers which can also slow things down. Sometimes if the rootball isn’t like bam in-your-face robust as in totally covered with white roots then what can happen is the old rootball gets blanketed in by a lot of new soil and watered in…. which means less oxygen to the root zone, which can be further compounded by overwatering. A crust on top of soil is a sign that soil tilth & calcium are off and the crust impedes evaporation and proper airflow

with low temps and recent transplant think I’d hold off on watering and let the soil dry out. Also I wouldn’t expect much change until temps improve significantly…

Hopefully you’ve caught this in time and we can help turn it around.


Questions,
Can you tell us the brand name of potting soil?
Got a pic of the bag?
Do you know if it had nutrients added?
Do you have any nutrients on hand?

my 2 cents but for now hang tight and don’t change a thing…

let’s see what else comes in from the crew

It’s AGRO, It has:
+ vitality complex for vitality of the plant
+ fertiliser KRISTALON for 6 weeks
(I have combined it with the final soil and literally a hand of black soil + perlite)

I have this for grow and bloom. Haven’t started applying yet. It’s PLAGRON terra grow and terra bloom.

Should I start using the terra grow already? I am waiting for fully warm temps for the plants to be transplanted to final soil in my garden.

All the roots covered. Am going to hide the plants inside for the night. And will dry out the soil for the roots to recover.
Will wait for better temps and transplant to final soil based on plant conditions.

Just came across some ants hiding under the pots(it has holes on the bottom)

 

[Sativa1970]

Agree with 013, too cold and wet. There may be other issues but with her too cold and wet there is no point. Can you drape a make shift green house over her?

There is no point in adding nutrients to the soil yet. The roots won't draw anything up because they are saturated and the cold has slowed it's metabolic rate down too much to process what it already has. I am not familiar with those products but I would be weary of any soil containing a 6 week food supply.

 

[Sativa1970]

Did a quick search and can not find anything on the soil. I have herd of Kristalon but only ever used it on nonflowering plants. It's an organic fert too high in N for flowering plants. Adding it to two soils without N may balance out. Do not use sugars or microbe boosters with it. Cold, over watering and N toxicity all cause dark green leaves clawing towards the ground.

Plagron grow bottle pic is labeled 2-1-3 on company sight but lists it as 3-1-3 under specs.
Plagron bloom bottle pic is labeled 2-1-3 on company sight but lists it as 2-2-4 under specs.
What do your bottles say?

 

[013]

Agree with Sativa1970,

the soil has 6 weeks of added nutrients, I would skip the Plagron liquid nutes for now.

Also I would not transplant them again anytime soon, they need to stabilize first, secondly they need to grow a pretty massive amount to knit up all the soil in the larger container, you want them pretty much rootbound before doing another transplant.

A lot of times people hear rootbound and think it’s bad and try to avoid it. Rootbound in and of itself isn’t bad, now rootbound for weeks before flipping to flower is not great, or totally root bound all thru flower isn’t great but just plain root bound in veg can be merely interpreted as a sign that yes, this plant has locked up the majority of its soil and it is now not only safe to transplant but it’s highly recommended thst you do move them into a bigger home… said differently they need to fill up their current home before moving up again

Anything you can do to give them warmer temps will help, the cold has them in a stall pattern… also noticed in your pics it looks like tile or stone floors… if you can I’d elevate the plants above the tile, maybe use wood pallets. Masonry floors & concrete slabs are a heat sink, there’s enough cold and damp to suck the life out of your plants…

anyway my 2 cents

 

[Sativa1970]

1 gallon of soil per foot is the common accepted ratio. transplant at 3/4 gallon per foot.

 

[SmokingWings]

The plants look OK with nothing drastic happening to them. Actually, all things considered they do look pretty good. You did not mention a country or any major city so I have to figure that you are in the Czech Republic since the bag of soil is printed in Czech. For weather information I chose Prague.

It’s AGRO, It has:
+ vitality complex for vitality of the plant
+ fertiliser KRISTALON for 6 weeks
(I have combined it with the final soil and literally a hand of black soil + perlite)

This is what we would consider a basic potting soil mix over here. It has some fertilizer already added just like the "Miracle Grow" we have over here. It is supposed to contain some peat moss. It also has composted tree bark so I have to figure the Argo company is using what some of us call "aged forest products". For many gardeners it is something that would be used as it is or it can be mixed with garden dirt and used for potted plants.

I placed all the plants outside for more natural sunlight(not just light through a window) and darkness at night. Temperature levels go from 11 degrees celsius at night to 22 through the day.

Those are cool daytime and night temperatures. The average day time temperatures for Prague will tend to be 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than for the Detroit, Michigan area I live in. Your average first frost in the fall is in November while mine is around the 25th of October.

If it was me then I would put the plants outside in a mostly sunny location and leave them there. If you have already had them outside all night the plants have become used to the cool night temperatures.

All 3 plants started whitening from sides, mostly lower leaves. And some of the leaves started bending down. Sometimes the white spots start to dry out from the leaf edges.

Looks like a reaction to being put outside in the sun. Some gardeners call it sun scalding. After several days it should stop happening. The damage done to the leaves will not return to green but it should not hurt the plant if you leave those leaves.

There are some signs of other damage but if these signs do not increase then it is not a problem.

Just came across some ants hiding under the pots(it has holes on the bottom)

Cut up a board into a piece just larger than the bottom of the pot. Put the pot on that so it is raised up off the ground. This should discourage ants that prefer to live in the ground. If they were ants that prefer to live in wood then using just one piece of the board is not enough for them. Or place the pots on a couple of bricks.

Have a great day and good luck.

 

[SmokingWings]

A lot of times people hear rootbound and think it’s bad and try to avoid it. Rootbound in and of itself isn’t bad, now rootbound for weeks before flipping to flower is not great, ....

Yep. I have the feeling that some of the people hear the words and over-react. I figure that they think that a large root mass means the plant is root bound.

The soil in potted plant that is root bound will not accept any water no matter how much is given. Nor will it hold onto the water no matter how slowly it is poured or if it is poured over several sessions. Sort of like what happens with a plant in soil that has become hydrophobic. No matter what is done that would have fixed a hydrophobic soil the problem continues if the pot has a root bound plant.

 

[JeanArti]

Did a quick search and can not find anything on the soil. I have herd of Kristalon but only ever used it on nonflowering plants. It's an organic fert too high in N for flowering plants. Adding it to two soils without N may balance out. Do not use sugars or microbe boosters with it. Cold, over watering and N toxicity all cause dark green leaves clawing towards the ground.

Plagron grow bottle pic is labeled 2-1-3 on company sight but lists it as 3-1-3 under specs.
Plagron bloom bottle pic is labeled 2-1-3 on company sight but lists it as 2-2-4 under specs.
What do your bottles say?

The plagron grow is 4-2-4
And the bloom is 2-2-4

Any advice on usage of these?

 

[JeanArti]

Looks like a reaction to being put outside in the sun. Some gardeners call it sun scalding. After several days it should stop happening. The damage done to the leaves will not return to green but it should not hurt the plant if you leave those leaves.

There are some signs of other damage but if these signs do not increase then it is not a problem.

I got same batch of 3 plants but only in the soil with krystalon

Here are problems I came across:
+ the lower leaves being glossy
+ most of them crumbling like your hands when you shower for too long.
+ some leaves look like they have cracks(see through veins from the top)

Other than that they look pretty good and healthy. Just want to check in, in case of some serious issues.

Thank you so much for everything!

 

[013]

I think the concern is… if you add liquid nutes now will they collide with the Kristalon? Once activated by water those nutes are available for 6 weeks

Soil looks pretty wet in last pic, how often do you water.

What’s up with clear plastic inside the black container?

How are you doing on temps?

Let’s hear from a few others on whether to add nutes yet or hold off until later.

 

[Sativa1970]

What’s up with clear plastic inside the black container?

Make shift green house for temp, I think.

Any advice on usage of these?

The algae base won't hurt but necessarily needed. The lower waxy leaves are an indicator of overfeeding. Every time you water the ktistalon feeds the plant high N. I would not add any N until it uses up the reserves in the soil. I don't know what else is in your soil mix but unless you start showing a deficiency I would just let it ride. Over feeding kills plants but under feeding just reduces some yield.